November 18
1530
Just moved into bungalow in Satara. I’m writing.
Gina’s washing some of her clothes in the sink (hey, I washed mine
yesterday – don’t want anyone assuming there’s a gender-based division of labor
here). Days seem to fly by and we’re now pass the halfway point. I’m trying not to think about it because it
depresses me that I’ve got so few quality photos in the can. Part of my self-work on this trip was to find
a way to enjoy the moments and not be so obsessed with the quality of images
I’m collecting. But I’m not exactly
succeeding.
We’ve ‘seen’ all of the animals that we’d expect to see on
this trip, but many of those sightings were fleeting and not photo-worthy. Again, I should appreciate it. Today for example we saw a total of 5 male
lions. I should be happy that I get to
be in a place where I share the same space with lions, right. But no photos at all. The first sighting was of three males. We encountered them on the drive north and it
was the typical Kruger experience. Lots
of cars parked on the road. We get in
there to see if we can figure out what they’re looking at (which has to be
lions or leopards to generate this much interest) and I spot a male. But he’s behind some brush and I don’t have a
clear shot. While I’m trying to figure
out whether there’s any place I put myself to get any sort of shot at all, he
hears something and sits bolt upright.
Then he starts moving fast, right to left across the road. Two other males also sit up and in sequence
start running in the same direction. I’m
frantically trying to see if I can get the lens ready and position the car
where I can get some sort of shot, but then so is everyone else and in seconds
they’re all gone, over a ridge. Who
knows what they heard. A kill. Other lions.
Who knows. But I got nothing.
Later, after we checked in at Satara (room wasn’t ready so
we went for a short drive), we saw 4 or 5 cars on the side of the road. Looking
west. This is a fairly open area with a
few scrubby trees. We scanned with binos
and quickly found two male lions flat under a tree. The light was terrible and they were asleep a
long way off. So, yes, lions and I
should feel lucky. But no chance at a
photo. Best we could do was mark the
location and hope to check back later to see if they move. But odds are slim that we’ll be there to see
them move, that they’ll move toward us, rather than away, etc.
The whole day has been like that. Earlier, we were driving through a really
pretty area after a nice rain shower. A
large bachelor herd of impala was standing around and a couple of them were
starting to act like they were going to get into it. I stopped the car to look back and watch. Impala are beautiful, delicate looking
antelope. Most people here are a bit
contemptuous of them because they’re by far the most plentiful mammal around.
But they really are handsome animals and have very interesting lives to
boot. So it’s a surprise when you
actually witness a fight because an impala fight is amazingly violent and loud
as the clash horns and roar (like really roar)
at each other. I think they rarely kill each other but horns are sometimes
broken and male impala are often taken by leopards who take advantage of their
complete lack of awareness of anything but their adversary.
I sat in the car, looking out of the window as these two
bachelor impalas started pawing and gesturing and shaking their heads at each
other. And I’m thinking, I really should shoot this. I really should shoot
this. Then they’re at it, faces in the dirt locking horns and putting all of
their strength into it. As soon as it
begins, another male comes tearing over, roaring loudly and in seconds they’re
all running around. Maybe 30 of them,
going every direction, roaring and running.
I’ve got a camera in one hand and am trying to reverse down this narrow
unpaved road, trying to find some place to focus my attention and then out of
nowhere a hyena runs into the middle of it.
It’s a young hyena. Doesn’t seem
interested in the impala but, on the other hand, he is there, right? His head’s held up and he’s sniffing the air,
making me think that he smells a kill or something nearby. He (or she, who knows) shuffles through the
scene and now some impala are alarming though Mr. Hyena doesn’t seem that
interested. He moves through the area
and down into a drainage line. Now, all
is calm and the impala energy seems completely spent and they’re placidly
eating just like nothing happened.
At the end of it, I got almost nothing. Maybe a couple of frames of hyena. Out of frustration I shoot a couple of frames
of impala calmly eating but it’s an act of resentment more than an effort to
get a real shot. Some days are like
this.
The weather’s been nice for the last several days. We had thunderstorms for a couple of days and
then a couple of windy, cool and over cast days. Today we had a nice soaking rain and it’s
still cooler than it was last week at this time.
We’ll go for another drive this evening and then I don’t
know. We’re here at Satara for two
nights and then we move further north, into the central part of the park. We’ve seen lots of great animals. Just wish I had more to show for it.
Today we heard our first woodland kingfisher. They migrate to southern Africa from the
north and their call is distinct and ubiquitous. We saw the first impala lamb several days ago
and that, along with the arrival of the woodland, means that spring has truly
arrived in the Lowveldt.
Getting bits of news via Facebook. Hearing that many governors and other
political demagogues in my country are saying they’ll refuse to accept refugees
from Syria. I’m saddened and embarrassed
by the pandering to xenophobia. I wish that I could also say that I was
surprised, but I can’t. History doesn’t judge a nation by how it behaves during
times of peace and plenty. History
judges nations by how they behave during times of danger and hardship. I’m old
now, and have spent most of my life hoping that we were a better people than
we’ve proven ourselves to be.
The always lovely southern ground hornbill
The helmeted guinea fowl, talking smack
Lastly, a pre-teen Nile crocodile, looking her best
No comments:
Post a Comment